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Unknown Arete 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Oct 14, 2013

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The interruption of the green line marks where you...

Description 

This has good, varied climbing that can be done, as I did, in one massive pitch or two enjoyable shorter pitches. The first pitch offers some fun moves on great rock protected by good gear. The second pitch is characterized by wandering slab climbing up a rounded arete with horizontal breaks every so often. Towards the top, the moves are a bit forced if one wants to clip the bolts. Some may be tempted to bail into the crack out left. It has fun moves if you follow the bolt line.

Location 

This is the next route right of Napa Arete and left of Don Juan. Look for a very splitter crack right off the deck on light colored rock. See the picture.

Protection 

Single set from micro to a #3, nuts, QDs. There are no anchors for the tops of either pitches. The top of the second pitch has an old piece of rope with a quicklink to rap off. A 70m gets you to a ledge and some easy downclimbing, otherwise bring two ropes.


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By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Oct 14, 2013

May want to bring some webbing or cordage to leave to get off this rig.

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