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Unknown aka Lost Elden Crack  

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 963
Submitted By: J. Snyder on Jan 21, 2013

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Whipper Therapy Photo: Chris Tatum

Description 

Little history is known about this Nor.AZ classic. J.Mattson was rumored to have climbed the left variation and at some point the right variation was aid climbed by an unknown party (J.M.? J.Gaun?). Until recently there was still a fixed stopper and a worthless "bashie" in the upper headwall. Any prior FFA of the right variation is unknown.

Start just right of the "pit of doom", climb up and traverse over to chossy, nest filled huecos above "pit of doom". Place a marginal piece in choss pod and climb through dangerous and unpredictable terrain to good ledge. A fall above the "pit of doom" is not an option and will result in injury.

Place good but small gear and climb steep crack to splitter off fingers. Continue up splitter off fingers (5.11) to a decision point.


Option 1: Make a hero move left to climb fingers in a flake to hands (5.10ish, Rad!)

Option 2: Plug small cams and plunge into the powerful and strenuous boulder problem that splits the upper headwalls' orange shield. Use a series of power pinches, strenuous laybacking and tip-locks to gun into a resolution hand jam. There is no gear during the crux sequence but though the fall is big, it is clean.

I was able to red point on 10/1/2012 after many failed attempts and resulting whipper therapy. M.Swartz repeated a month later

Location 

Obvious orange headwall-shield above "pit of doom".

Protection 

Gear used on red point:
.4 C4 24" runner
Red#0 C3 12" runner
.4 C4
.5 C4
.5 C4
2x Red#0 C3 equalized with two 12" runners
Bolted anchor

  • Optional hands piece for finish


Photos of Unknown aka Lost Elden Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: J.Snyder on the possible FFA of Lost Elden Crack P...
J.Snyder on the possible FFA of Lost Elden Crack P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mattson Crack aka Lost Elden Crack.  Photo: Chris ...
Mattson Crack aka Lost Elden Crack. Photo: Chris ...

Comments on Unknown aka Lost Elden Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Nov 29, 2016

That second paragraph is just about the least appealing route description I've ever read. It's likely accurate, and quite hysterical, but still just yucky. Just one more reason to be really happy that I am not capable of climbing .12R.
By BigNobody
From: all over, mostly Utah
Dec 7, 2016

"Just one more reason to be really happy that I am not capable of climbing .12R."

LMFAO. Riiigghhhhhtttt
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 7, 2016

Doesn't stop you from commenting on them though!
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 9, 2016

Buy 100' Chain. Hang Chain. Clip QDS to Chain where you want. Lead Climbing.

Or bring up like 25 crash pads.
By t.schwartz
Dec 9, 2016

^ *Like*
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 9, 2016

I paint all of my chain. I like how it smells.
By Scott Krankkala
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 30, 2017

Where is the 5.12 climbing? From the description it sounds like the left variation is 5.11r

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