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Unknown A T,S 
Unknown C T,S 

Unknown A 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Pomtier and A. Pons?
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2010

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Deb above the crux.

Description 

This is curious route with some eclectic hardware that draws your eye if you happen to be in the vicinity. It hops over 2 bulges.

Get situated onto the slab below a bolt with a homemade hanger with a delicate move (perhaps the crux). You can get a yellow TCU/Alien to protect the pull over the first overlap. Move up to the second overlap and fiddle in a big nut or small hex. Reach over and clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pull a balancy left hand layback with a left foot smear (done this way, this is the crux) or move left on easier terrain. A devilishly tall climber might just latch onto that tempting jug up and right of the 3rd bolt, but the average height climber's desire will be unfulfilled without a dyno. Continue up to a pair of bolts, one of which has a chain and the other is a odd homemade hanger.

Walkoff right and down a ramp or around the back.

Location 

This line fires up over 2 overlaps. It has an eye catching homemade hanger (which has since been replaced) on the first bolt.

Protection 

3 bolts, yellow TCU/Alien, big wire or small hex.


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By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jul 9, 2015

Dale Haas and I luckily survived from being shot while replacing the one homemade hanger at the start and the two homemade hangers at the anchor with Fixe SS. The American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware, but unfortunately not bullet-proof vests, for this project.

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