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Gunning For Gonzo 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,070
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This climb not apparently described int eh book, nor is it named or rated. It is a very large left-facing corner with some wide climbing near the ground. fopr much of it's length a crack in the right wall runs withing stemmins distance of the corner. Up top it goes to thin fingers to surmount the sandy ledge with a fixed anchor.To the right of this climb, on the wall's main face, there are a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. These may help you locate the climb in question.

No matter what your strength or weakness is, you are bound to find a little of it on this climb. It is safe, but exciting. A member of our group, a 5.10 leader cast off on it, concluing after a minor epic (safe, but scarey) that it "was the dumbest thing (he has) ever done." THat is to say, to get on that climb at his level. No less, after a few tries to pull up more gear, a few hangs and a marathon belay, he arrived safely up top and lowered off no worse for the wear.This is a decent climb and might deserve 2 stars. It's subjective and this cliff offers stiff competition for the stars. There are many better climbs here.


Various, a heavy rack from .33" to #4 camalot" with one #5 camalot for security in a wide spot if desired.The crux up high will be done on thin gear, so a double-run of aliens or eq. up there would be good to have. Plan accordingly.YOu need a 70M rope to lower off.

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