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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 3,525
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (101)
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Good shot of the route.

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  • Description 

    This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag. This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.

    Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake. Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top. Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip.

    Caveat Emptor: one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and breaking an ankle on this route, so pay attention. Bring small cams if this is near your limit. Some now rate this 9+.

    This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.


    This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left on this little buttress.


    8-10 bolts and possibly gear.

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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 22, 2010
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear.
    By JonnyGreenlee Greenlee
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Mar 7, 2012
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2013

    Gear 0.5"-1" will protect the middle section nicely.
    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 17, 2014
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    There are 8 bolts on this route, unless you clip some on adjacent routes. Minor runout after B4 has ledge-fall potential and can be protected with a small cam (e.g. 0.3 - 0.5 BD). More significant runout above B6 can be protected with micro cams on the left or medium cams under the overlap to the right (long draw). Or just climb through it and wonder where those other bolts went.
    By Joncharlesdavis
    May 24, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Don't be intimidated by the crux. All the holds are there.
    By Andrew Locke
    From: Louisville, CO
    Aug 4, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Not worth bringing the gear unless you're going for other gear lines. The only runout is through easy climbing.

    Partner and I both enjoyed this line quite a bit, but I'm not really sure where the crux is. The roof is pretty easy once you find the hold above it. We both thought this was 5.8, and we're gumbies. Certainly don't feel intimidated by the grade, though it *might* be a good idea to stick clip the second bolt if you're a new leader. The moves right below it are thoughtful, and a fall would be...unpleasant.
    By JoshQ
    Sep 25, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Really enjoyed this route. Tons of fun the whole way up. We avoided the runout by placing 3 pieces of gear. It's my opinion that following the route with gear makes for a funner climb as you could run it out in a straight line and miss the fun roof. Would say this one was second favorite at this area. Not difficult at all for the grade.
    By Matt Bentley
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 12, 2017
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    This route had some water on it today (early May), which made the crux more interesting. Under that roof though, DON'T move right to try to get the clip. It's really tough to move back left, and there aren't any good holds on the right, even though there appear to be some. Just go straight up with those underclings.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 13, 2017

    This route felt harder than the .10a to the right and harder than the route to the left to my partner and me.

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