REI Community
Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Californication S 
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 
Dexter S 
Erika S 
Fire and Rain S 
Firestarter S 
Friends S 
Full Respect S 
Hustle T 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Lightning Strike S 
Loyalty S 
Nurse Jackie S 
Quick Silver S 
Rain Check S 
Rain Delay S 
Respect T 
Reunion S 
Side Dish T 
Smallville S 
Spooked S 
Summer Nights S 
Thunderhead S 
Weeds S 

Californication 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 2,632
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Wonderful climb, wish the top (wide) crack was lon...

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    On the far right end of this crag is a pair of bolted starts to a short, right-facing dihedral. This goes up the left start with the 3 bolts.

    Start onto a micro rib with a crux at the beginning. After the 3rd bolt, move into the dihedral with traditional pro and finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. You could continue this past another bolt to a 75' anchor with Mussy hooks.

    Others have provided a name, Californication. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

    Location 

    On the far right end of this crag is a pair of bolted starts to a short, right-facing dihedral. This goes up the left, 3 bolt start.

    Protection 

    3 bolts, a few cams in the #2-3 Camalot range. An additional bolt if you continue up.


    Photos of Californication Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Route is the obvious crack going up the center.
    Route is the obvious crack going up the center.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The bolt line in the center is the route.
    BETA PHOTO: The bolt line in the center is the route.

    Comments on Californication Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By JonnyGreenlee Greenlee
    From: Evergreen, CO
    May 19, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I placed a 0.5 and 3 C4 in the crack. You definitely want something in the 2-3 range.
    By Joncharlesdavis
    May 24, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    One of my favorites at this crag.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About