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Unknown 5.9 T,TR 

Unknown 5.9 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Alpine, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 14, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is the right most route on the wall. Look for the interesting flared crack system with a horizontal crack that leads to a perfect hand crack about 2/3 of the way up the route. Climb this sublime hand crack and exit onto the face to the left. Somehow climb the moves on the face and ponder at the 5.9 rating in the guide, or bail out to the right and skip the last bolt.

Location 

This route in on the right hand side of the wall just before the wet gully.

Protection 

gear to two inches, two button heads and a 2 bolt ASCA anchor.


Comments on Unknown 5.9 Add Comment
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By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Jun 14, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The original topo for the wall shows this as a 5.10 as well. The lower portion is about 5.9, the upper face is cryptic at the very least.
By Mat Brunton
Jul 2, 2017

Climbing through the bolts on this route makes it the hardest climb at the crag, IMO (except the 5.11). Two spicy clips. Blank topout. Possible to bail off to the right, but you have to go back down and around the corner.

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