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Eddy (submitted as Unknown 5.9+), The S 
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The Eddy (submitted as Unknown 5.9+) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jason Zellers, Gilbert Peneda, and Pike Quinn, 2001
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Sep 13, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo.

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This route is on a separate outcropping upstream from the New River Wall. Follow the approach for Highlander and New River Wall for about 100 yards. As the trail hits a small flat area and heads up left, look down and right to find an outcropping with 2 bolts at the lip and a third as backup about 10 feet from the lip.

Figure out how to get down. I set up a rappel at the anchors with the single bolt as backup and rappelled about 50 feet down and right to the lower anchors (on a sloping shelf just off the water). Watch the ends of your rope or coil them and feed as you rappel to keep your rope dry! Another possibility would be to rappel off a separate line, setup to stay out of the river.

Follow 3 bolts up and left over relatively easy terrain. Crank up and over a small roof (crux - 1 more bolt) and head for the anchors.


This is located on the far left side of the crag on the slabby area.


2 bolt anchor, 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of The Eddy (submitted as Unknown 5.9+) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice climb.  The crux may be keeping your rope out...
Nice climb. The crux may be keeping your rope out...

Comments on The Eddy (submitted as Unknown 5.9+) Add Comment
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By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Sep 13, 2008

This is also listed under the New River Wall as 'Unknown at New River' and I just copied and pasted the info, since it is at this crag....
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A blue or green Alien could be used between bolts 3 & 4. Nice route.
By David Tennant
From: Denver, CO
May 6, 2015

The Capps/Lloyd 2014 guide refers to this route as "The Eddy".
By Jason Zellers
Jan 29, 2016

I bolted the route in the summer of 2001 and climbed it with Gilbert Peneda and Pike Quinn the same morning. There's a fun TR out of the pod to the left that climbs to the upper anchor as well.
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jan 30, 2016

Do you have a name for it?

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