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Unnamed 10- T 
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Unknown 5.9 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,517
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (108)
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Ryan leading up Unnamed 5.9

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Crack in corner starts as hands and quickly turns into big hands. Somewhat difficult moves where the corner opens up and you have to climb over a large wedged boulder in the crack. Felt hard for 5.9, but it's only 40 feet so....


First climb left of Wavy Gravy. Corner that opens at the top with a boulder wedged in the crack.


Probably 2 each of gold and blue Camalots and maybe a smaller piece or two for the top.

Photos of Unknown 5.9 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex learns to Jam at The Creek
Alex learns to Jam at The Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: so pumped at the pod on this one... look right to ...
so pumped at the pod on this one... look right to ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Katy Fun-Maker guns for the chains on the Unnamed ...
Katy Fun-Maker guns for the chains on the Unnamed ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.9

Comments on Unknown 5.9 Add Comment
Show which comments
By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Feb 7, 2009

Good two bolt anchor at the top. Also you can continue over to the anchor of the OW corner for a TR.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Felt very hard for a 5.9. Think more 5.10...short but it has some thin hands followed by wide hands. Not THAT much easier than wavy gravy for me.
By coop Best
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 16, 2010

Agree about feeling harder than a 5.9
By Andy Novak
From: Golden, Co
May 26, 2010

As of 5/10 there is a name plaque at the base of this climb that says "Dr. Awkward, 5.9". Seems about right.
By snicho
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2012

The gear includes a couple of #1 cams and a #2. #3 optional. Great lead if you have small hands!
By David Dennis
From: High Sierra
Oct 31, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As of 10/30/14, the left bolt on this climb's anchor was slightly loose and able to be moved up/down and side-to-side. It was tight enough to not pull out when I yanked on it, but there was more movement than you'd like. The right bolt is bomber with decent webbing on it. You can scramble up to the anchors on top of Fat Farm and rap off those if you don't like what you see. FYI!
By Anus Herder
From: Montrose, CO
Nov 23, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you look up at the anchor there is another anchor 40' up there.. looks harder but could be a rad P2? Anyone know what this is?
By Scott
From: Colorado
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Tight hands to good hands to a fun bouldery moves to get out of the pod at the top. Protects very well with 2 #1, 2 #2, and 2 #3.

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