REI Community
Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adultery T 
Birthday Bash T 
Caught Up in the Air T 
Caught up in the Air Direct T 
Cedar Blossom T 
Cedar Pie T 
Common Ground T 
Details at Ten T 
Ex-squeeze Me T 
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 
Happy Camper S 
Happy Ending T,S 
I wanna be sedated T,S 
LeMenestrel Cramps T 
Margin of Error T 
Miracle Whip T 
Miracle Whip Alt T 
New Creature T 
Off The Cuff T 
Oh! Mr. Friction T 
Orangutan Flake T 
Passion and Warfare T,S 
Pawing the Void S 
Petrified Cedar T 
Polliwog T 
Rawhide Arch T 
Sibling Revelry T 
Smoke Hole Weiners T 
Spirit Stick T,S 
Stockings On The Mantle T 
Tadpole Direct T 
Toads R Us T 
Two In Agreement T 
Unknown 5.5 T 
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 
unknown 5.8 T 
unknown 5.9- T,S 
Wild Ginger Root T 
Wyoming Dick T 

unknown 5.9- 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Season: all
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Cody Ashe on Feb 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
TJ repelling off the top.


The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolt and is well protected. Very fun route.


Route is almost as far left as you can go on the cliff. Find a big roof and route is just left of it.


5 bolts. Small cams nuts and tcus. Anchors at the top. Need a 70 meter rope to repel down

Comments on unknown 5.9- Add Comment
Show which comments
By The Pilsner Prophet
From: Albuquerque N.M.
May 20, 2014

This is the Pilsner Prophet again. I remember doing a route with Steve Lawless at the far left end of Cedar Rock. Could this be it? I remember the ledge at the top of the first pitch. I put in a bolt or two for anchors. I also remember a water groove there. I told Sean about it a week or two later, but I didn't think the route compared to Cedar Pie, Caught up in the Air, or the other top quality stuff there, so I didn't make a big deal about it. Who knows?
By Mike Reardon
May 22, 2014

Hey Pilsner Prophet, thanks for all the comments. That sounds like it. The bolts were upgraded to SS a few years ago. Fun route with many little crystals, it deserves a name!
By The Pilsner Prophet
From: Albuquerque N.M.
May 23, 2014

Mike- The Pilsner Prophet here. Thanks for the nice note. I've been in New Mexico since '96, and my momories of Cedar Rock aren't 100% reliable. I guess I got the chronology about Toads R Us wrong, but I'm sure about my memories of this route. As I recall, when I led the first pitch and put in the bolts, I put one in several inches above the other to facilitate belaying, or I put both in at head height. I hate the rope hanging down when I'm belaying, and having to fight it. I can't remember the second pitch- how the pro was, or anything else but I think it was pretty easy after the first few moves.
By Ezra Ellis
From: Hotlanta
Nov 15, 2015

A good route, a oo metolius tcu protects the exit moves.
By Chris Little
Jul 11, 2017

Chris Little here, again. This route, like all the others at Cedar, was bolted on-sight on the first ascent. Some were added later by the people who put them up. It was all done alpine. I just thought that was important.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About