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5.9 Corner T 
Alluvial Ecstasy S 
Beartrap Jam T 
GSW T 
GSW - Left T 
In Spite of Ourselves T 
Jack Attack, The T 
Marvelous S 
Moai Crack T 
Molly's Stealthy Ride S 
Noses Right Off Our Faces, The T 
Pylon Pump S 
Slope on a Rope S 
Substandard T 
Sweeping with Mr. Brownstone T 
Unknown 5.11a S 
Unknown 5.8 S 

Unknown 5.8 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Fall Winter Spring
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Matt Wenger on Feb 13, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.8

Description 

Fairly standard Madison river climbing. Interesting features, but nothing to write home about. Left of two routes up here.

Message me if you know route name/FA.

Location 

Hike up the gulley about 30m left of Jack Attack. At the apex, scramble up and right onto a large ledge. There are two mixed/sport routes up here.

Protection 

It seems there are several ways to start this route.

1) Build a bomber anchor using #1, 2, and 3 BD cams, as the route starts by moving up and right over about 60' of exposure. Climb 15' to the obvious first bolt. From here trend left for about 20' of runout (you may be able to squeak a cam in somewhere in here) to the next bolt. From here the bolts are spaced normally. 7 bolts to chains.

2) Skip the first obvious bolt, and use the mediocre crack to place some small gear up to the first bolt ~30' up. Finish on bolts to chains.


Photos of Unknown 5.8 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown 5.8 (left) and Unknown 5.9? (right)
BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.8 (left) and Unknown 5.9? (right)

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