REI Community
Sunshine Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Draino T 
Exotic Dancer S 
Fist Sucker S 
Hey Operator S 
Huge Left Faceing Corner T 
Last Call S 
Mayday S 
Plebeian Paradise  S 
Poser S 
Purple Rain S 
Road Rash T,S 
Road Soda S 
Road Warrior S 
Sex on the Rocks S 
Sunshine Ridge T 
Thrombosis S 
Unforgiven, The S 
Unknown  T 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 5.8+ "Blue Hanger Route"  T 
Whajacallit T,S 

Unknown 5.8+ "Blue Hanger Route"  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 12, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Found some booty near the 2nd pitch.

Description 

Are there three parties already on Sunshine Ridge? Occasionally this is the case, have no fear. A second route exists. While it is shorter, and the rock quality suffers at the bottom, the upper pitches are actually almost has good as those on sunshine. This route likely has a longer history, it has (or had) several old military style ring pitons on it although they are slowly disappearing or have been replaced by bolts.

Access pitches: Anything around Mayday, Thrombosis gully climbs, Although you could also scramble up Thrombosis gully


Pitch 1: 5.6 climb rotten rock trending left, there was a fixed ring piton in this section. belay off the a large ledge, to the left of the second sawed off telephone pole located in a nice alcove (the first sawed off pole is just above the anchor on Mayday. This is about 50ft from Sunshine Ridge. This line starts another 50-100 ft to the left of this. Find a section that looks like the rock is good, and follow the highest rock quality. Keep your eyes on the look out for bolts. The next two pitches are at least as high quality as the pitches on sunshine ridge.

Pitch 2: 5.8+ Climb some rotten rock past one (blue) hanger 5/16 button head bolt, the rock quality improves here. follow the crack system to a small, and suspect tree with sun rotted webbing. Belay here, but probably not off the tree, there is a wide crack just below the next bulge that will take 3 or 4 inch pieces.

Pitch 3: 5.7+ climb upwards and trend right until you see a fixe hanger and bolt. Clip this and climb up and follow three or four more bolts through some moves above it. These bolts are all missing hangers and nuts, so bring some stoppers to sling them. Belay from the Anchor at the top of sunshine.

Laugh at the throngs of people stuck on Sunshine, and walk down following the trail to the left.

Location 

To the left of Sunshine Ridge Proper

Protection 

gear to 2"


Comments on Unknown 5.8+ "Blue Hanger Route" Add Comment
Show which comments
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Mar 10, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Finding this is a fun little adventure! The bottom pitches are ok but the real fun starts at that blue button head. The upper pitches have some of the best rock on the highway! The upper two pitches can also be accessed by climbing Sunshine Ridge to the boulder belay and then traversing left until you spot the blue hanger.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About