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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unknown (5.6 ramp) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,338
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on May 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown (5.6), Penitente Canyon, San Luis Valley, ...

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


Between the Brown Sugar Wall and Jewel of the Mild are (at least) two bolted routes that are not included in D'Antonio's 1999 guidebook. This is the left bolted line, which ascends a slopey ramp that rises up to the right. Sort of grassy, not particularly interesting, but this route does provide an easy sport lead (which are in short supply here) as well as access to setting a toprope for an Unknown 5.10a route to the right. If anyone has a route name or FA for this 5.6, pipe up and I'll amend this page accordingly.


This is on the face right of the Brown Sugar Wall, left of the face with Jewel of the Mild. The start of this easy ramp is approximately the same as that of unnamed Route #94 in D'Antonio (1999), and it follows an obvious, right-trending set of seams. About 30 feet to the right of this route is the bottom of the ~5.10 route, just left of a bright green lichen patch with a crack.


6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. This top anchor is shared with the ~5.10 route that drops straight down the face below the anchor.

Comments on Unknown (5.6 ramp) Add Comment
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By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Parties seem to like TRing this but even with directionals, an inexperienced follower could be set up for a bad pendulum in a few places.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2009

Pretty much a bomb of a route. A few moves to the first bolt then walk up the grassy crack. Also of course be aware that it would be virtually impossible to rap clean this route due to the extreme diagonal. Shares an anchor with the unknown route to the right. (which is actually quite a good route and probably around 5.10).
By Mort
Nov 25, 2012

Oh come on, this is a great route for the grade. Fun moves, lunch ledge, and it actually has holds. Best route for a beginner to start on in Peni.
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I agree with the misgivings doing this on TR, but since it isn't of the grading documented in D'Antonio, the 5.6-5.7 rating seems correct. I thought it was a fun, toy climb. Not really worth your time, but go for it if you are looking for easy (easy lead perhaps).

Walking up the grassy crack was great fun, although not challenging in the least.
By George Bracksieck
Oct 5, 2015

The first bolt wiggles and should be replaced with a correctly torqued long, half-inch stainless-steel sleeve bolt, such as the Powers 5-piece. (I recall that Powers has lowered the recommended installation torque to 25 foot-pounds for the half-inch 5-piece.) It protects the crux moves and is the only pro between the leader and the ground. Although this rock may seem hard on the surface, it is softer underneath, so wedge bolts (the bolts with the threads sticking out) aren't the best choice.

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