Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner)
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Dave Stewart burries good jams high over the groun...
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
A must do route to be sure. Fun, well protected, high quality. Great moves and perfect stone most of the way. Sustained, but beatable with technique. You can arrive at the chains without a pump if you pay attention to the features, but this is a great route for technicians or thugs alike.
To find this route, first locate "Warm-Up Handcrack" (see this site) and then backtrack to a HUGE left-facing corner that starts 17meters up and continues for another 45 meters to some anchors. These are not immediately apparent from the ground. There is a light-brown slab that rises up and to the right against the base of this route from which to start in a good looking set of cracks in that wall.
Climb up the slab and cast off onto the first pitch 5.9(?) placing a few cams in the right-facing crack and corner- clip the single bolt (no chain or webbing) and add gear to belay, or continue into the business. You are now in a massive right-facing corner with an outward-pointing crack, which offers mostly very good jams. Space your cams wisely, push them up, leap-frog them, etc... when you pass the fist blind bulge, you have 20 meters left to go. Three meters from the top you will reach a bump in the crack that goes right, this takes some large TCUs (1-2") and might help alleviate the high demand on your 2.5" pieces... place the TCUs and finish the climb.
Rap on two 60 meter lines. Watch out for loose rock when pulling your rope, should it happen to catch on a ledge on the way down. We pulled a head-sized block off accidentally and had to dodge it.
The racks are per pitch- but the climb can be combined into one monster lead.P1- a few cams each 2"-3" and a few small TCU's to back up the sngle bolt belay.P2- Got red & gold camalots? Good- 150' to go. 2.5" are about perfect for most of the way (loose red, tight gold) and a few 3" or even 3.5" can be placed to suppliment.The crux "bump" (tiny roof) can fit gear 1"-2", so take a few large TCU's and save a few cams for the rest of the route.!!!Rapping off REQUIRES two 60M ropes!!!
BETA PHOTO: The unnamed 2-pitch corner can be seen in this sho...
Dave Stewart a log way up the untitled 2-pitch 5.1...
|Comments on Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner)
By Rob Dillon
Apr 13, 2006
It's right of the 'Warm-up Handcrack', and really good. Also marked by a Hong bolt.
By Courtney Pace
Mar 18, 2010
One of the finest routes i've done at the creek. Take all your #1's.
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 22, 2010
There is still a good deal of loose rock on the ledges. Be mindful of your partner below and when you pull the ropes. We carried down a snow globe sized piece with us that was waiting to launch near the top. The finishing stance is good; I'd recommend belaying from the anchor.
No definitive crux. If you're comfortable walking gear, you can safely get away with 200 feet of quality climbing without taking multiple racks of reds and golds. 5 #1s, 4 #2s (with the other Bloom gear beta) was sufficient. One .4 bd came in handy halfway, but nothing smaller. Rope drag was not an issue. I only used a runner on a piece or two.
Doesn't look like the route gets much traffic. The jumble above should not deter you from jumping on this thing. If you enjoy tight 2s, you will be psyched that you climbed this!
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
this is a really long route, probably close to 180 feet or so. mostly excellent, but there are a couple sections with rock that isn't great. really heavy on the thin hands (#1 camalots and/or 2.5 friends). i could see 10+ or 11-, either way, but went with 11- due to the sheer length.