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Unknown 5.10a/b 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Fall/Spring
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: Chad Parker on Nov 28, 2014  with updates from Benjamin Chapman and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.10a/b far left side of Attitude Wall.

Description 

The route identified as "Unknown 5.10a" begins just right of the right-facing corner of "Joke Book" and left of the arete that separates the slabby southeast face from the overhung eastern portion of the Attitude Wall. Begin climbing steep cobbles and aggregate to a horizontal break. Move up and right to the 1st bolt. Climb the slabby face and polished cobbles. Above the 3rd bolt the face becomes thin and forces you right on balancy footholds, but with little in the way of handholds until a large red block can be reached. Continue up along the right edge of the cave on wild pockets to the anchor.

Location 

Far left side of Attitude Wall just right of Joke Book.

Protection 

5 bolts and a set of nearly closed cold shuts.


Photos of Unknown 5.10a/b Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mae reaching the crux on the Unknown 5.10a/b
Mae reaching the crux on the Unknown 5.10a/b
Rock Climbing Photo: Mae on Attitude Wall
Mae on Attitude Wall

Comments on Unknown 5.10a/b Add Comment
Show which comments
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Bill Olszewski and Jan Tarculas are calling this "Unknown 5.10a" a 5.10b in their comments on the main Attitude Wall page.
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Nov 30, 2014

Sweet Benjamin thank you for that. I don't disagree it's solid for sure.
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Nov 30, 2014

By the way Benjamin should I change the rating on the page if it let's me? Or does it change by other people's ratings and average it out? I think it's important to have correct ratings and info on this site :)

Chad
By Michele1210
Sep 28, 2015

I climbed this route last week and thought it was challenging and fun, though we agreed it should probably be a 5.10a. Though, there is one drawback, and I recommend being very WARY when climbing this route. Especially at night. Why?

There is a BEE HIVE in the crack to the right of the anchor!

Two people climbed this route before me in the daylight and there was no sign of bees. The sun had soon set and I volunteered to climb and clean the route. The moon was bright so I climbed the whole route by moonlight. It was fantastic. When I got to the anchor I turned on my headlamp, since I especially didn't want to make any mistakes while cleaning. I got myself anchored in, and that's when I saw the first bees. The headlamp must have upset them. I thought, "I'll leave them alone and they'll leave me alone, it has worked in the past." Meanwhile, I quickly untied my knot and started cleaning as quickly as possible.

But a bee just had to fly up to my face and get stuck between my helmet and my forehead. I tried to ignore it, but the bee panicked, and stung me. My reflexes kicked in and I killed the bee. At that point, the bees decided it was game on. There were roughly 10-20 bees around me by this time.

Long story short, I hurry to retie my knot, found that I didn't give myself enough rope, pulled up more rope, re-threaded and retied my knot, double checked my knot, removed the gear, and GTFO of there. Despite my attempts to hurry, I got stung 4 more times. But as soon as I got some three feet away from the top they left me alone like good little bees, and I made it to the ground safe and sound.

So, all in all, this is a fun climb, just BEE PREPARED for anything up there at the top.
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Sep 30, 2015

Wow! Thanks for the info Michele. Glad you're OK :)

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