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Unknown 5.10+ T 
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Unknown 5.10+ 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Mar 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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fun route with boomber gear.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Climb thin hands in a shallow right facing corner.
Traverse right briefly on crimps in a horizontal crack (with gear).
Climb a multi-crack system through varied sizes to a ledge.
Ascend a couple ledges to anchors potentially saving a 0.4" piece for the last moves.


A minute left of Hand Solo and just a bit left of the Duo. Around the corner and left of "Mine."

Start marked by shallow right facing thin hands crack to horizontal traverse right to gain another crack.

Less than 60m to ground.

Apparently a route called the Gnash(?) is located just left, and climbs a wide crack to the same anchors.


Singles: 0.4", 0.5", 0.75", 3"
Doubles: 1" to 2.5"

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By Rob Dillon
Mar 18, 2012

Super fun, and you should do it!
By slim
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

really cool route with several diverse, interesting sections.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 24, 2013

I did a super fun new and more direct start to this onsight. Start in the dihedral under the roof below the route. A few thin moves and you get a good stance where you can clip some solid gear (purple and blue tcus) before pulling the roof. I cleaned as much loose rock as I could on lead but there's probably a bit more. This variation clocks in around 11 or 11+. Overall very enjoyable route.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Apr 20, 2016

Is this the same route that is listed in Blooms new guide as an Unknown 5.11 (route 13)?
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Oct 29, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Yes, this is the Unknown 5.11 in the Bloom IC guide. Very good hard climbing, thin off-sized crack much of the way. Done a lot of 10+s in the Creek; would have to go with the 5.11 rating on this one. Superb!
By Ben Bauer
From: Sunnyvale, California
Oct 31, 2016

Calling this 5.10+ is going to get someone hurt. I climbed this today and there is nothing 5.10 about it
By J. Hickok
Feb 5, 2017

@bphelps15: Some people are gonna get hurt no matter what. Calling this 10+ or 11 won't stop somebody from getting hurt, but placing good solid gear, leading at or a little above your level, and using your head as a climber WILL stop you from getting hurt.

Oh yeah, and don't screw up changing the anchors or let your belayer drop you... because that could happen on a 5.7.
By justino
Sep 14, 2017

I think this was another Jay Smith FA

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