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Donnelly Canyon
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Unknown 5.10+ 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,704
Submitted By: Dave Gentry on Apr 22, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route is in the next corner left of "The Naked and the Dead." Look for a left leaning pillar with a large chockstone near the bottom. Clearly seen in the Donnelly Canyon photo.

This is a short and super-fun route - at least until you get to the last 15 feet.

Start by squeezing into the chimney below the chockstone, then pulling up and over it. The fun commences with good gear and great stemming - one hand in the (finger) crack, the other on the leaning pillar. The pillar leans away from the wall, so the stemming gets more exciting as you climb.Once you reach the top of the pillar the real work begins. Your two smallest pieces will fit in the bulge - but, if you're not solid while liebacking on sloping tips, save one larger green Alien size for the short ramp over the bulge.The anchors are just large machine-bolts sticking out of the rock, with webbing slung over them. Not too reassuring. The current rings are aluminum rap rings - don't toprope through them (duh)!


One hand-sized piece for the chockstone, then at least two each of blue, green, yellow and red Alien sized pieces. A #3 - #4 (old style) Camalot will fit nicely in the pod below the crux.

Photos of Unknown 5.10+ Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: gracefully surmounting the chockstone
gracefully surmounting the chockstone
Rock Climbing Photo: Look, Ma . . . !
Look, Ma . . . !
Rock Climbing Photo: Danielle disdaining the stem in favor of the lieba...
Danielle disdaining the stem in favor of the lieba...
Rock Climbing Photo: Atop the chockstone. Pic by Danielle Koehn
Atop the chockstone. Pic by Danielle Koehn

Comments on Unknown 5.10+ Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 19, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A nice change from the typical IC splitter.Secure, well protected chimneying leads to an intriguing step across into the layback crack. A couple layback moves deliver you into a nice wide-hands crack (rest) where you can psych up for the tips layback to the chains. A green alien in the small pod right at the lip protects the crux well.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2009

No, the next corner left of Naked and the Dead is Fuel Injected Hard Body. This Unnamed 5.10+ is left of FIHB.

A #3 C4 fits in the pod as well.
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Mellow climbing leads to a short, stout crux. Worth doing.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Apr 3, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

As of 2011 this is in need of a new anchor.
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Apr 2, 2016

Anchors are fine, good climb but serious in nature for ur average 10. The rock sounds super hollow before leaving the stem and entering the corner, so prob a good idea to double up in the good rock a few feet below the mid crux. A .2 is the key piece for me at the final crux. Other than that, Great climb that I don't see many people doing.

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