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Terra Tower - Way Bazaar T 
Tom Stubbs Memorial Route - Terra Tower T 
Unknown 5.10 crack  T 

Unknown 5.10 crack  

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: morning sun, afternoon shade
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Kat A on May 28, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown crack climb, just right of Tom Stubb's Mem...

Description 

This is a fun, left-angling, single-pitch crack climb located climber's right of Tom Stubb's Memorial Route.

It has very enjoyable movement on less-than-stellar sandstone. A PG-13 rating based on the poor rock quality in some sections of this pitch. It's Monument, not Indian Creek.

The crux might be hand-size and reach dependent. At 5'3" with small hands, I found the steep section shortly below the anchor the crux (1-2 green Camalots are nice here, plus a good hip jam to keep you from popping off), but my partner with larger hands found the lower green/red Camalot section more challenging.

If you have information on the route name and/or first ascentionists, please contribute, and I'll happily update (admins, please feel free to update as well). Thanks to those who installed the nice rap anchors.

Location 

It is ~20-30' climber's right of Tom Stubbs Memorial Route.

Protection 

1 #0.3 Camalot, 1 #0.5 Camalot, 3 #0.75 Camalots, 4 #1 Camalots, 3 #2 Camalots, and 3 #3 Camalots.

We spaced gear widely down low and closely up high due to rock quality variation. A helmet for belayer is recommended.

There are nice rap anchors installed at the top.


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Better rock than several popular routes in the area. The crux indeed is height and hand-size dependent. Small folks will have a hard move up high, larger folks a harder time down in the thin area.

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