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Unknown 5 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: TBD on Aug 24, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.

Description 

Start from the base of the ramp/gully at the right side of the slab. Follow the line of bolts angling up and right to where they join a crack. Follow the bolts up through the roof above.

The moves down low are tenuous and challenging. The bolted crack and hollow rock through the roof detract from this otherwise good route.

Location 

This is the 5th bolted route from the left.

Protection 

15 bolts.


Comments on Unknown 5 Add Comment
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By Clare Shemeta
Aug 21, 2011

We got on this accidentally thinking it was unknown 4 at 5.9...hee hee! There are 7 bolts to the first anchor. There is a second goes to the roof (7 bolts) - we rated it as 10a. Nice route. Second pitch is a bit dirty but fun roofy pumpy hand jammin' moves. P1 is slippery, and we agree with the 12- rating.
By George Bracksieck
Jun 25, 2017

This pitch is 100 feet long and has 15 clips. On toprope, I avoided the first half on the left, following a left-angling seam. Traversing right, to the midway anchor, was the crux of this variation (5.9+). Above, the rock steepened into an enjoyable, slightly overhanging jug haul, protected by bolts next to cracks.

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