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Approximate route line. Photo by Kelsey Grey. Stol...
This is probably the best multi pitch crack climb in the green gully. Largely ignored because..... It's not in the guidebook. Despite the splitters on the route being plainly visible from the road. While there are sections of typical steep moss to navigate, the route essentially has 3 pitches of excellent and clean crack climbing, and would be a very popular route if... It was in a guidebook.
Start about 2/3 of the way up the green gully. The landmark to look for is the third pitch chimney/wide crack that faces right. Above and to the left of this pitch is an obvious splitter in steep white and grey rock that is the 4th pitch. A 20m scrambling approach pitch (5.7?) is the start, and leads to a small alcove where an awesome fingers and hands crack appears right at the belay. This second pitch crack is VERY GOOD, and sustained. There is a solid chockstone that is in the upper part of the crack, before the angle eases and heads up to the chimney pitch. The 4th pitch splitter hand crack is sublime, and ends at a sweet ledge. The few people that have climbed this route universally loved it.
Double set to 4 ". Some rap anchors located off route line. Walk off the top towards Fairangel Valley.
By Mat Brunton
Jul 17, 2015
Had been gazing up there and wondering... Thanks for sharing!