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Eagle Rock
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Unknown 3 S 

Unknown 3 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Jared Moore on Jun 9, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: 5.9 on the right side of the light orange face

Description 

Another fun route with balancy moves. Basically, this climb is the .10c's little brother. Crux around the 2nd to 3rd bolt, where the holds get sparse. Climbing eases up just as you get to the roof. Nice fun moves to pull the roof.

Location 

This climb is the right-most bolted route with a roof found about 35 ft. up.

The wall (east-facing) receives morning sun but is fully shaded by 1:15ish in the summer. It can be located by turning right from the beginning of the main trail and cutting slightly uphill until reaching the base of the wall. There is a very faint trail leading up but tread lightly, as the area is very duffy and fragile. The main face is very light orange and looks like junky rock, but it's actually solid, for the most part.

Protection 

5 bolts, chains (shared with the 5.10c)


Comments on Unknown 3 Add Comment
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By Road
From: Stanton
Aug 1, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

easy and short.

soft ball sized hold just below clip 3, I think it was 3, is loose. Looks like someone tried to fix it with some epoxy but it hasn't worked. It held me and my partner but be careful and let your belay know you might be pulling off a decent rock so they can stand in the right spot to avoid getting nailed.

decently fun pulling onto the ledge but a lot of dirt/pebbles in the dish it forms.

says it shares chains with the route to its left, but there is a bolt or two 20 feet above the "last" bolt for this route. I wanted to investigate but didn't feel like down climbing if it went up 30 feet and then stopped (which I suspect it does).
By Jared Moore
From: Tahoe City, CA
Aug 1, 2015

So...there are a few bolts that go up from the first anchor. There used to be a proper 2-bolt anchor up above the first shared anchor, however, the last time I was there, one bolt has somehow disappeared. The climbing is somewhat sketchy, but there are actually bolts that go all the way up to the top. In fact, there is a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the upper bolt line of the head wall. I haven't tried that, but if you are feeling adventurous, it does go to the top.