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"Unknown 1" S 
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Unknown 2 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 27, 2016

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West Face topo. Routes: 5. "Unknown 2"...

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Description 

This is a great slab climb on excellent rock, marred only by tedious amounts of sage-hued lichen. This line and its neighbor would be 3-stars after a thorough brushing.

Presumably this was intended as a mixed line, since there are two significant runouts: between the 1st and 2nd bolts, and after the last (3rd) bolt. The latter is on much easier terrain with many options for clean gear. However, the first runout would be tricky to protect. There is one obvious horizontal slot that would take a bomber finger-sized camp, but most climbers would want their hand in said slot. Perhaps bring a low profile piece and use the slot for both gear and (a couple) fingers.

Location 

This is the left-most line on the west face.

Protection 

3 bolts to 2-bolt chain anchor. Additional gear is recommended, including a finger-sized piece. It’s possible to TR this line after leading AAA. Simply continue leading ~8 feet past the AAA anchor to this route’s anchor (hidden under a small roof).


Comments on Unknown 2 Add Comment
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By mlloyd
From: denver
Feb 12, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A good route but hard for 5.10. Like most new routes, it's quite dirty.

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