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The Lion's Den
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Unknown 2 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tom Kohlmann
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jun 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Route photo. Start a bit right of center.

Description 

The crux of this route is found just above the rappel anchor mid-pitch where some very interesting rock is encountered.

Location 

This route is locate two formations to the right (SE) of Barnacle Rock. It climbs directly up the narrowing face to the end of the obvious difficulties.

There is another route just right of this one. It looks much easier and ends at the same set of anchors.

Protection 

There are 3 bolts to the mid-pitch, two-bolt, rappel anchor then 5 bolts above that to the top of the climb and another two-bolt anchor. You cannot reach the ground with a single 60m rope, so you must use the mid-pitch rappel anchor. This probably also applies to a 70m rope as well.

Both rappel anchors are equipped with twisted 3/8" quicklinks. Be careful how you thread your rope.


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By Dennis of Mazo
Oct 4, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yes, you can rap with a 70 meter but to the side, not down the route.