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Unknown .11d 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bryan Burdo or ?
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jun 20, 2017

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Description 

A decent route with some good climbing made mediocre by bad rock quality higher up. Start on vague, blocky climbing to the first bolt and enter an extended crux sequence. Surprisingly technical and quite good for the next 3-4 bolts, the route climbs through sloping shelves and even a flared finger jam. After another bolt or two of fun edges and pinches, the climbing abruptly changes to wallowing over steep, loose rock with many breakable 'holds', some large.

Location 

This route is to the right of the .11a arete (The Torcher). Like that route, the top is marred by vague, stumbly climbing over increasingly loose rock; wearing a helmet while belaying is a good rule of thumb on the left side of the cliff.

Protection 

Bolts (8-10) and fixed lowering hardware. Helmet for belayer and possibly climber.


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By Drewsky
Jun 20, 2017

If anyone knows the name and first conqueror of this route, feel free to provide them and I'll edit them into the description.

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