REI Community
Nightworm Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arety-ret Flakey Fest T 
Night Crawler T,TR 
Nightingale T 
Unknown 11 T,S 

Unknown 11 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 728
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Jun 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
After the pins, near the second bolt.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route starts on the right side of the rock. A bolt protects the initial slab move up to the small overhang. Exit the overhang to the right and follow four more bolts up the face. The crux is at the fourth bolt where the rock steepens. The climbing here involves small edges and lots of crimpin'. Be careful of the small flake below the 5th bolt. It flexes when pulled on and if it breaks the route will get harder.

Location 

This is the rightmost route on the rock. A bolt on the slab identifies the route. Rap or lower from the anchor on top.

Protection 

5 bolts and 2 pitons protect the route. Small cams can back up the pins. There is a two bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Unknown 11 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of the unknown 11a - first one complete...
At the top of the unknown 11a - first one complete...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cindy enjoying a top rope.  She is just below the ...
BETA PHOTO: Cindy enjoying a top rope. She is just below the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Passing the 2nd pin, heading to the 2nd bolt, good...
Passing the 2nd pin, heading to the 2nd bolt, good...

Comments on Unknown 11 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 18, 2009

After clipping bolt #4, you can go left (long reach) or right with a hold or two near the arete (less reachy, more balancy). Near the solstice, the upper half of this tiny buttress is in the sun midday.
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Metolius #0 (purple) protects the move past the 2nd pin.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 22, 2013

It seems easiest to go left of the bolts.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About