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Fire and Rain 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 1,916
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009  with updates from L Kap

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  • Description 

    This is currently the 6th bolted line from the left on this buttress and starts with beige hangers. It joins Firestarter at about 1/2 height.

    This starts just to the right of Firestarter below a hanging arete. The crux is in the first 10 feet as you try to get secure on smeary feet and get into a layback on the hanging arete. There is a stray bolt up and right of the 2nd bolt which may be another variation starting from the next route to the left. Ignore that bolt for this variation. Move up past 4 more bolts and traverse left into Firestarter. Continue up to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

    Make sure to clean off your shoes before you start this route.

    This may have been climbed by Ed Ash in the 1980s.

    Location 

    This is currently the 6th bolted start from the left on this little buttress. It can be identified by beige hangers and is just left of the tree near the middle of the wall.

    Protection 

    11-12 bolts.


    Comments on Fire and Rain Add Comment
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    By A. Bandos
    From: Broomfield
    Aug 16, 2014

    Be sure to add some slings or use long draws for the traverse out left.
    By John Alcorn
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 31, 2015
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Great route! The crux is definitely the first 15 feet. Layback until it gets too sloped, and then look for crimps/jug up above. Another cruxy section about halfway up the route, but after that it's 5.6/5.7. Definitely worth a go.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 9, 2016
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Why on earth traverse left? How about place an Alien under the flakes and lead the SOB directly up? It's 10b, and it's been done. I also cleaned off that 20 lb. loose flake above the Alien-protected roof.
    By Aaron Sefton
    Aug 27, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    The guidebook calls this a 5.9+ and calls Firestarter (just to the left) a 5.10b which is opposite of what is posted here on Mountain Project. In any case, the traverse left about 15 feet up and the traverse left again under the 2nd roof to join Firestarter are definitely the cruxes, maybe harder than 5.9+ if you are shorter like me. I used 3 60mm alpine draws, 1 to protect the 1st traverse using the random bolt above, and 2 to extend around the 2nd roof to reduce rope drag. In fact, once I got over the 2nd roof and clipped the next bolt above it, I removed the draw that's just to the left of the 2nd roof. This helped quite a bit with reducing rope drag. Above the 2nd roof, the route mellows out.

    In any case, this is kind of a funky route, but it is still enjoyable.

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