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Unknown 10- (wide R facing flake) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 945
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 23, 2006

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another unknown or unnamed Indian Creek Route. This route is found by moving left from the base of Sinestra on a ledge and popping around and over a few boulders the size of refrigerators to the base of a right-facing corner and flake.
Start up on hand-jams in a corner to work up into it as the corner shrinks to a mere flake. Pinch the arete flake to the left as you negotiate the wide section up top.
The grade in the Bloom book is given at 5.10-, but it felt harder than the unnamed 5.10+... but then again, that felt easier than graded. Which is all to say that it depends upon hand size. Both were in the range of 5.10 though.

Location 

Approximately 20 meters left of Sinestra, starting off a ledge with some large Boulders.

Protection 

A few cams from 2-3" and them a few 3.5-4" cams, then an O.W. piece, if desired.


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By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Oct 21, 2013

Bloom 2nd edition claims bad anchor. It now sports 2 star drives equalized with a 1/2 in wedge bolt with a SS Metolius hanger. Bring a new #5 camalot.

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