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"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Alpha Chino's Chinos S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
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Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Orange S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Satan's Alley S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Squeeze  S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Treble Huck S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

Unknown 1 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011

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Entering the fun, juggy steepness.

Description 

This is a great route with two distinct characters, beginning with long athletic moves on big holds, and ending with delicate slab balancing. The rock is a bit spooking-looking at the start, but it is relatively solid. The upper slab features flawless Verdon-esque stone.

A few easy moves lead up to a series of successive bulges. The climbing gets progressively more difficult leading to a tan belly which can be passed by either side. Mount the gray slab where a brief respite of easy jug-hauling leads to a tricky mantle followed by the slab crux just below the anchor.

Location 

This is the furthest left bolted route at the Teenage Prostitutes Area (also the first route right of the gully and the first route encountered if you head north from the junction of the approach trail with the cliff-base trail).

Protection 

9 bolts, 2 BA. No stick clip is needed on this one!


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Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown #1 snakes up the tilted column.
Unknown #1 snakes up the tilted column.

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