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Safecracker- aka "Firecracker" 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,685
Submitted By: markguycan on May 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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pitch 2 handstacks!

Description 

P1: 10+ fingers to fists, P2: 5.11OW- hand stacks, chicken wings & froggy feet! look forward to 2 bolts on this pitch! P3: difficult bombay squeeze to ???

Location 

about 40min up trail and just a few min before the pass follow a ledge system around to the south the beautiful parallel ow of 2nd pitch will be obvious.

Protection 

doubles to #3 Camalot, 1 #3.5, #4, dbl #4.5 & #5. Rap once w/ 2 60M ropes or twice (but expect to need to equip lower bolts for rappel.)


Photos of Safecracker- aka "Firecracker" Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the route
BETA PHOTO: the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Dean on First Attempt
BETA PHOTO: Dean on First Attempt

Comments on Safecracker- aka "Firecracker" Add Comment
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By Dean Hoffman
Oct 14, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Sooo here is my breakdown:
Pitch 1: harder than it looks, short but steep and tricky fingers crux to hands/big hands up to a sweet ledge belay. I would recommend singles up to yellow metolius, doubles up to BD #3, a 3.5, and a 4 Camalot.
Pitch 2: amazingly clean, splitter OW, 90ft of sustained hand stacks getting progressively wider. Two mankey old bolts on this pitch, one truly awesome jug and an in yer face way cool finish. This pitch rivals any OW at the Creek and the scenery is spectacular. Leave everything smaller than #4 Camalot at the belay and start yer hand stacking. I took doubles from #4(old) through # 6 (new). That being said a "confident" 11+OW leader would probably be fine with one #5 and a set of hexes...
P3: uninspiring looking squeeze OW?

P2:anchors are kitted out with chains and it's a clean rap with 2 60m.
This route was awesome, awesome, awesome! Go climb it!
By Dean Hoffman
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

So was on the ledge system above Firecracker today and didn't spot any anchors above the 2nd pitch... FAists may have continued up, or perhaps rapped from the top of the second, my recommendation. If you do persevere there are anchors on the upper ledge to climbers left that will take you down, you should be able to walk a relatively flat ledge to the station. Three raps with one 70 will put you on the ground.
By Ron Raimonde
Nov 12, 2013

Hey Guys. This Route is named "SafeCracker" and was put up by Reed Thorne and Brian Heydorn In the 80's. It was the first route in counterfeiter canyon. I put up all of the rest of the 13 routes in this canyon with various partners but mostly solo and mostly in the 90s. You can see a few of the routes from Safecracker. Most are between 5 to 10 pitches in length. Almost all of the routes involve at least a bit of aid. I didnt freeclimb anything over 5.12 I don't spend much time online but I will try and post topos as time allows.
By Dean Hoffman
Dec 12, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Hey Ron, thanks for the heads up. This area is amazing and any additional info would be awesome!
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Best OW I've ever been on.
Not that I've climbed a ton, but this is sick. 90 ft of only hand stacking... mostly knee-locking. Somewhere in the 5.11 range.
By Ryan Z
Mar 4, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I am happy to admit grades are subjective but there is no way this is 5.11 OW. Lets talk about this. It's a splitter #5 crack, its not overhung, and it has two solid rests evenly spaced (so the "sustained" argument is invalid), the only miniature rooflet has foot chips out left. And who the fuck put bolts on this!? A you kidding me? It's a perfect crack.

The first pitch warrants the 10+ grade more so than the second. 5.11 OW is difficult. Climb lobotomy, big baby, serrator, dentists chair, incisor, root canal, (north) spout route; even big guy or prosecutor. Explain how this is anywhere close to those in difficulty and I will listen intently.

Great Climb! Unfortunately, many people will walk right past this glory because of the 5.? number. It's a very friendly OW.

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