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Universal Wall

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Sesame Street 
Universal Wall- Left 

Universal Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,300'
Location: 36.26401, -115.66912 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,617
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Thomas Beck on Jun 11, 2015
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Julie on that same "mystery boulder" che...

  • According the Las Vegas BLM climbing rangers part of the Uiversal Wall has a Wilderness designation. According to the contour map shown on Wilderness. net the boundaries run along the rim of the Universal Wall. See this link and enlarge: wilderness.net/map. The boundareis are shown as a green line. MORE INFO >>>
  • Mount Charleston Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Universal Wall: page under construction as I assemble contributions

    Getting There 

    How do you get to the Universal Wall?

    Find your way to Mary Jane Falls trailhead parking.

    Follow the 157 past the Charleston Fire Station and go straight on Echo Road where the 157 turns left to go up the hill to the old Charleston Hotel.

    Follow Echo Road and the signs to the Mary Jane parking lot trail head. Look south and you will see the 1200 ft.grey and golden Universal Wall.

    Cross the wood fence and go south across the meadow. There is a chopped off at 4' small pine tree for a good initial marker. Cross in the dry wash. Behind it, still south, is a steep gully. See photo of trail start on the Sesame Street page.
    Ascend the gully about 60 meters and break right towards a old large stump. Before the stump the climber's trail begins switch-backing up the hill. There aren't many cairns now but the trail is pretty clear. It generally follows linked game trails and stays out of any drainage’s. About ¾ of a mile up there will be a short limestone cliff on your left.

    Follow the trail to the top of a wooded buttress and go right to a very short descent into the hanging "meadow". For Sesame Street....Go through the copse of bent over Aspen trees and climb the slope to the wall. I'm gonna guess it's less than 0.5 mile. Average time up with a load is 45 minutes, an hour at a casual pace. Total distance to the hanging meadow is around 1.5 miles. Sesame Street shades in the afternoon; as of April 29th, 2015 around 1:30 PM. Routes left of the Hummingbird Arete (the fairly prominent and chossy lower angle feature) are shady by 10:30 and stay that way till 4:30 PM in the summer. The "Hydra" corner is in shade around noon. Climb slightly harder or much harder stuff in the shade while you wait for the sun to pass over.

    Alternately you can ascend the main drainage gully of the Universal Wall. Simply cross the meadow going slightly west to find the start of the trail. It is also a good trail and shorter than the first one but with more rocks and downed logs to cross over. Takes you into the bottom of the hanging meadow.

    A simple caveat: If you go into that area when snow is on the rim of the Universal Wall or the summit of Charleston is freezing overnight, you will be exposing yourself to a higher chance of rockfall from the rim. I wouldn't go after a couple days of heavy rain for the same reason. Believe me a helmet won't help much in that situation.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 1.0 miles from here

    11 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Universal Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Universal Wall:
    Don't Cry Big Bird   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   Sesame Street
    Ernie Steps Out   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Sesame Street
    Grover Explains Near and Far   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Sesame Street
    Snuffleupagus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Sesame Street
    The Count Becomes Difficult   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Sesame Street
    Bert's Whitewash   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Sesame Street
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Universal Wall

    Featured Route For Universal Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Swallowtail's Delight
 2) Captain's Table
 3) C...

    Captain's Table 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  Nevada : Mount Charleston : ... : Universal Wall- Left
    Myself, Mark, and Mike took turns leading this, placing one bolt each on the FA. Later Thomas Beck removed these and retro-bolted it with a few more.Climb out the right side of an alcove then angle left and up through perfect washboard horizontal edges to an anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

    Photos of Universal Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Hydra, 5.11+, at the Universal Wall
    BETA PHOTO: The Hydra, 5.11+, at the Universal Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Erigeron uncialis ssp, conjugans (inch high fleaba...
    BETA PHOTO: Erigeron uncialis ssp, conjugans (inch high fleaba...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rockfall can be a serious consideration at the Uni...
    BETA PHOTO: Rockfall can be a serious consideration at the Uni...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Viola purpurea (Charleston Violet); another classi...
    BETA PHOTO: Viola purpurea (Charleston Violet); another classi...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Charleston Mountain Thistle seems to grow everywhe...
    BETA PHOTO: Charleston Mountain Thistle seems to grow everywhe...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Castilleja martinii (clokeys paint brush): another...
    BETA PHOTO: Castilleja martinii (clokeys paint brush): another...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ivesia jaegeri or Jaeger's Mousetail: another of t...
    BETA PHOTO: Ivesia jaegeri or Jaeger's Mousetail: another of t...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Angelica Scabrida: one of the classified sensitive...
    BETA PHOTO: Angelica Scabrida: one of the classified sensitive...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the crux sequence, pitch 1 of The Hydra. ...
    Start of the crux sequence, pitch 1 of The Hydra. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Hydra, 5.11+, at the Universal Wall
    BETA PHOTO: The Hydra, 5.11+, at the Universal Wall

    Comments on Universal Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Sandy Crimp
    Jul 21, 2015
    "Brian" would be referring to the late great Brian McCray and the type of bolting you are describing was almost certainly not done by him. Although, he did put up some hard multi-pitches up there.

    Thomas Beck is active on this site. SO, why not ask him if he did the bolting that has so offended you. Discuss the benefits and reasons against, etc. It actually does sound kind of bad/messy...but it has to be discussed...not just deemed unilaterally unacceptable by the Rudeboy.

    Your post is probably completely unproductive as it is so inline with your screen name.

    Kind of like the below:

    These bolts bad...Rudeboy routes good yo! The Rudeboy has spoken; discussion done BRAH!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Paiute wall scout mission, red rock nevada. March ...
    Paiute wall scout mission, red rock nevada. March 2012.
    By The Beagle
    Jul 21, 2015
    Trad gumby arrives in Vegas/learns to climb, reads too much Twight, and goes to a sport climbing area expecting traditional ethics. More at 11.
    By Sandy Crimp
    Jul 22, 2015
    If you think someone is being stupid...try to talk to that someone...which in this case is likely Tom Beck. See if he did the thing that has so offended you. Discuss it..."not" accusing anyone in this open forum in the most rude way possible...is not going to help in the least.

    Personally, it seems that you are highly unlikely to actually want to discuss the issue with the person responsible. Rather, you want to display your "route development superiority".
    By RRGEllis
    From: Kentucky
    Jul 22, 2015
    Uhh ohh. We got a badass over here. Threatening to chop an entire wall seems like the best possible way to handle this. Especially since the entire local climbing community has agreed and formed an ethnic on universal that it's going. To be a sport wall. And it appears you're the only one who seems to give a shit on something it seems you know so little about. I think you're just upset those little 5.8 slabs were already done so you could FA them. But looking at your history you don't really care if it's been done or named before because you'll probably just rename it.
    By Colonel Mustard
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Jul 22, 2015
    A mediocre climber full of righteous trad ethics that at the base he doesn't even respect (FA prerogative being a large part)? Move aside Mr. Howard, LV has a new name in internet ass hattery.
    By Trundle Foot
    Aug 5, 2017
    The danger factor cannot be overemphasized for this place. When you climb, rocks fall, when it rains, rocks fall, and when the sun shines, rocks fall. At least 1 helmet should be worn, and that goes for your dog at the base too. Climbing within 200 feet of a party above you (seriously) is a death sentence, and if anyone were working on routes from high on the wall they could easily trundle something that would could fly and bounce 150 yards or more in 3 directions. This is not a good place to bring a pack of kids or group of people not on their toes.

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