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Universal Conflicts  T 

Universal Conflicts  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Roy Suggett, Gene Vallee, and Andy Ross
New Route: Yes
Season: May through October
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Aug 30, 2015

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Andy demonstrating proper liebacking technique.

Description 

The crux is in my head. I am conflicted about this route. The first 2/3s of this trad line are three plus stars...the last third will make you ponder the truths of the universe. So perhaps the anchor should be moved down 15 ft.? The crack takes gear well and the liebacking is epic. Then you turn the small roof and see sketchy rock. So I put a bolt in here to give courage. If you want to add a bolt here and make it an anchor...be my quest...or thrash on with your belayer well out of range (we tried to clean, pry, and scrub but the blocks look so tenuous and yet refused to budge).

Location 

Just south of the Banshee Perch (a small tower on a hump of talus) on the main wall. The crack is an obvious line.

Protection 

BD .4 through #1 X 2, one QD for the one bolt, and runners for the anchor composed of two bolts, a chain and a quicklink (see FA rack photo).


Photos of Universal Conflicts Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Universal Conflicts Topo
BETA PHOTO: Universal Conflicts Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Universal Conflicts FA rack
BETA PHOTO: Universal Conflicts FA rack
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy "Thugging" his way up
Andy "Thugging" his way up

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