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Union Man 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gary Henning, 2011
Page Views: 1,021
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Union Man (5.11a), Riverside Quarry

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


Climb a dirty slab up to the base of the roof, reach up and out to a good pocket in the roof and then power over with no feet until able to get established over the lip. Finish up blocky ledges to reach the anchors.

Bees are active on the lower portion of this climb when it's warm out so be warned!


Face to a roof right of a large left-facing corner (Some Assembly Required).


6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos of Union Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake pulling the crux on Union Man
Jake pulling the crux on Union Man

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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Finally a route where campusing at the gym actually has real life applicability!
By Sys Ex
From: Lake Forest, CA
Feb 2, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I don't understand why this climb only gets 1 star in the guidebook. I think its great! Really fun climbing out of the roof and a tad mental. I enjoyed it quite a bit!
By alex carey
Dec 26, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I also am surprised this route doesnt get as much love some of the others here. If assembly line is a 3 star so is this. Sure its on the short side, but its definitely more fun pulling the roof here than on the other blank face climbs.

If your intimidated don't be, it takes a specific sequence but figuring it out is plenty safe with the bolt locations.

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