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Union Flake 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Andrew Riley (Bolted by Andrew, Cyrille, and TCCM)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Andrew Riley on Feb 12, 2016

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Clement trying Union Flake

Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts with an overhanging layback using a wide crack. Turn the lip clip the first bolt and cruise along the jug flake until you reach the upper crux. This route was called 'Union Flake' to celebrate the route's first ascent on Union Day.

Location 

The leftmost of the two routes to the left of the cave entrance.

Protection 

3 bolts, shares 2 ring anchor with 'Wounds and Wins' Bolted on 05/15 with Stainless Steel expansion bolts.


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By Katie Riley
Jun 11, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really bouldery start, especially for the shorter climber. The pump eases the higher you get on that flake that takes you up almost to the top! It's not over until you're up on that slab.

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