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Out-of-Downers Dome
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Unidentified-3 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Mark Abbott on Apr 3, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Unidentified #3.

Description 

This route may be Sawin' the Bean. Start about 10 feet right of the tree in the corner, at a head-high shelf from which two finger-sized cracks/seams go up. Boulder up onto the shelf. Going right, the shelf angles up to become a ramp. Walk right on it about 15 feet (past some cracks/seams that also look good) to a stand-alone continuous crack, and climb it to the top. Along the way there's an awkward roof with bomber hand or fist jams, but most of the route is face climbing due to the flared nature of the crack.

Location 

This route is on the smaller, unnamed dome just behind/north of the right/northeast half of Out-of-Downers Dome. The main landmark at this wall is a large tree growing right in the corner of a right-facing dihedral. This route starts about 10 feet right of that tree, at a head-high shelf from which two finger-sized cracks/seams go up.

Descend by walking off to the northeast.

Protection 

I bailed off this and toproped it, so these suggestions are speculative.

The lower two-thirds of the crack tends to be flared with shallow parallel-sided slots in the back, so shallow cams (e.g. TCUs) may be the ticket. In addition to that, a light-to-standard rack with one or two hand-sized pieces reserved to use at the roof.

There isn't much for anchors right at the top of the climbing. The leader can continue across the flat "summit" to the trees for an anchor, and rig something using left-over slack rope to position herself at the top of the climbing to belay the second.

Apology 

There are more routes on this wall than the two listed in Kerry 1997, and I haven't been able to identify Teabaggin' or Sawin' the Bean.


Photos of Unidentified-3 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unidentified #3.
BETA PHOTO: Unidentified #3.

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