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The Blues Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Discharge S 
Black Cat Bone T 
Blue in the Face S 
Color of Pain, The S 
Cry Baby S 
Number 9 T 
Rhythm and Bolts S 
Starfish T,S 
Twelve Gauge IQ T 
Unicorn Blues S 
Written in Stone S 

Unicorn Blues 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Kalman, Alessandra Patz, Mike Patz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 903
Submitted By: Chris Kalman on Sep 5, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Allie going for the finish jug!

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Unicorn Blues is the extension to Cry Baby. The upper crux is not really more difficult than Cry Baby's crux, just a touch more sustained. This pitch features excellent arete climbing, and some cool bouldery sequences. A very good line!

Location 

Immediately right of the splitter finger crack Black Cat Bone

Protection 

10 quickdraws should do fine.


Photos of Unicorn Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Allie crushing.
Allie crushing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike focusing in.
Mike focusing in.

Comments on Unicorn Blues Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Not so much an extension now that the Cry Baby anchors were removed.
By Chris Kalman
May 31, 2017

Stamati - when I bolted the extension, I removed two decrepit anchor bolts from Cry Baby, and replaced with a single new stainless bolt for the full pitch. TBH, I found the bottom cruxes of Cry Baby as hard or harder than the upper arete; but the upper arete, IMO, is the best climbing on that pitch. So it didn't make a lot of sense to me to replace the anchor.

That said, you are the second person who has commented on the old anchor being removed. When I'm back in July, let's just put it back.

That said, I would def recommend climbing the full pitch.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
May 31, 2017

Once the anchor is back though, the majority of people will stop there, no matter how good the climbing above is...
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 1, 2017
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

I'm not necessarily saying it should be replaced, but that saying it's an extension is not really accurate, right?

I agree with you that the arete is really good climbing and that the hardest part is the crux of Cry Baby. It makes sense to continue up the arete. I wonder if you could switch in to Black Cat and finish with the roof of that route.
By Chris Kalman
Jun 2, 2017

You can finish up Black Cat but I wouldn't recommend it. The finish is less climactic, and it also makes your rope run over a dangerously sharp edge.

...

Stig! You thought 11c/d?! Are you getting super strong or something? Even Mike Patz fell on it... The sandbag is strong with you... did you send?
By Douglas T
Jun 5, 2017

I'd like to see the original Cry Baby anchor back, with Unicorn Blues being a fun extension. I was disappointed to hear that something on my To-Do list had been made out of reach. CK, I'll gladly help reinstall it.
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 6, 2017
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Didn't send, just fucked around on TR, but just didn't feel the arete was any harder. It took me longer to do the Cry Baby crux. Honestly though I don't know what grades mean anymore.
By Chris Kalman
Jun 7, 2017

Doug T - thanks dude. Sorry to have ganked em. Let's replace it in July!

Stamati - I think 12a is pretty fair. It feels a bit diff on lead (IMO). Anyway, I agree with you, bottom crux of Cry Baby is as hard or harder.

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