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Unholy Wick 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Bill Goldner, 1965
Page Views: 1,304
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Oct 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: You know, looking at the photos in both Williams' ...


1. Move up into the flaring, right-facing corner. Climb out left (crux, this can be done at several spots) to an obvious, right-facing flake, then go up and left to a small ledge. Move right a bit then go straight to the GT ledge. 5.7, 150 feet.

2. Walk right until you are at the bolted rap station. Go up to a shallow, left-facing corner that leads to a roof at 30 feet. Once past this, drift up and left to a very large flake. Belay behind this flake. 5.6, 70 feet.

3. Move to the end of the ledge and climb a crack in the left wall of the corner to a small grassy ledge. Several more moves and you're on top. 5.8, 40 feet.

The first pitch is a very reasonable and nice 5.7 and worth doing by itself.

Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' right.


Locate the High Exposure buttress, then walk back left approximately 200 feet. Look for a flared, right-facing corner with a roof. The corner starts about 8-10 feet from the ground.


Standard 'Gunks rack.

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Oct 9, 2009

Nicely described, Dana!
By Gunkiemike
Oct 8, 2015

Not a bad route, but the last 40 ft or so were surprisingly lichen-y. The "5.6R" part was not that bad; the holds are crisp and confidence-inspiring.

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