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Holy Buttress Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dr. Strange Glove T 
Holy Buttress T 
Rat Race T 
Rude Intrusion T 
Unholy Buttress T 
Vertebrae T 

Unholy Buttress 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Preston Rhea, Steph Lozano - 9.3.2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: Preston Rhea on Sep 17, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Unholy Buttress

Description 

This is a variation to the Holy Buttress.

Knobby face climbing above a boulder leads to a thin crack. The R rating comes from these first handful of moves. The gear is thin and relatively spaced out with a bad landing. Follow the thin crack to a large ledge.

This climb can be done in one long pitch, but it may be better to break it into two shorter ones to avoid rope drag issues. The ledge is the obvious place to break up the climb.

Broken climbing above the ledge leads to another short headwall. Either take the right arching crack on the right or the crack into gully on the left.

Location 

Starts on top of the boulder immediately right of Holy Buttress.

There is no fixed anchor at top. Walk off climber's left back to the base.

Protection 

Standard rock rack to 2.5".


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