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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Verne and Margaret Clevenger, Claude Fiddler 7/75
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jul 21, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is another in the long line of runout, moderately protected Tuolumne face routes. Note that the 5.9+ face move on pitch 5 is poorly protected for the second who could face a huge swing out into space if they fell off(I witnessed this and it wasn't pretty!)


The route is located just uphill from the start of Lucky Streaks(they share the same belay ledge for pitch 1). You are ultimately shooting for the huge roof above and right which you will reach on pitch 5.

There are only three bolts on this route; one on pitch 2, one on pitch 3 and one on pitch 5 so you are basically linking small features (cracks and arches) to get reasonable pro.

A good landmark to head for at the start is the right facing arch that is midway up the third pitch. The arch can be climbed directly at 5.10a or a face traverse(5.9+) below it. The next landmark to shoot for is a small ledge with a small tree on it at the end of pitch 4. From there the notorious pitch 5 climbs up and right past a bolt and through the huge roof which goes at 5.3.

One more easy pitch of scrambling gets you to the descent slopes where you head down and right to get off the dome.


There are three bolts on this climb. Bring a standard rack of stoppers and aliens and cams to 3".

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