REI Community
Wall of the Trundling Trolls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered S 
Asgard T 
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 
Best of Both Worlds T 
Business as Usual T 
Chicken Little S 
Dead Precedents T 
Digital Alarm T 
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 
Eggashegadrae T 
Fear of Lurking S 
Few Species T 
Flexible Flyer T 
Furchrissakes T 
Gully T 
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 
Hall of the Mountain King T 
Hostile Takeover T 
Hung Like a Troll T 
Hyper Sloth T 
If I Had a Hammer T 
Internet Troll T 
Jerk Whisperer, The S 
Loki T 
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 
Player Hater's Club T 
Run Like Hell T 
Sidebottom T 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Slip Service S 
Slot, The T 
Smoke and Mirrors S 
Spew Feces T 
Stalker, The T 
Stranger in a Strange Land S 
Sudden Death T 
Take Apart the Robots T 
Talk of the Nation S 
Tao of Choy, The T 
That's Entertainment T 
Trollkind T 
Tyr T 
Unforgiven T 
Valhalla T 
You're Fired! T 


YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: SA, Abishek Chandrashakur, Justin Keptuch
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Another amazing climb; with sustained, aesthetic moves. The final, lengthy crux section is stunning. Start Between Valhalla and Valhalla Direct, at a prominent right-facing pointed flake. Climb up to a roof (#4 Camalot) bearing a bolt above, pull through to the crack above, and then transfer left onto the easy section of crack on Valhalla. Reach up and out left to a roof, and up through the roof to a hanging, left-facing corner. Engage the crux section, and hope for absolution! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.


8 bolts, stoppers #3-7, small cams, #4 Camalot, anchors.


Start downhill and right of Vahalla (see Squeezing the Lemmon), on the right side of the prominent right-facing, pointed flake.

Comments on Unforgiven Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2011

Rating this 11+ is a sandbag. Probably closer to 12b which makes David Merins onsight even more impressive. Very tenuous climbing in a number of places. This climb will save your tips as there are a lot of rounded holds. No need for the #4 at the first roof. The first move over the roof is kind of fun but really doesn't add much to the climb and moving left to Valhalla is harder for shorter folks. Take a green and purple camalot for the section that crosses Valhalla. The rest of the climb is a blast with the upper section being hard to figure out the easiest option if you are onsighting. I didn't OS it and thought it would be easier on the next run. That run and redpoint occurred the next day after a good warm-up and it still seemed desperate to me. Perhaps it is 11+ if you are over 6 feet tall.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About