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Doc Holliday Wall
Routes Sorted
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Doc's Holiday S 
Far Beyond Driven S 
Loose Women, Loose Rock T 
Pistol Pete S 
Quick on the Draw S 
Skyline Pillar S 
Unforgiven S 

Unforgiven 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, July 2001
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 1,348
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valle...

Description 

Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.

Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left it's not quite a classic.

Location 

Head up past the start of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to reach the start of this route.

Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Unforgiven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than ...
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than ...

Comments on Unforgiven Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO.

~Susan
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks.

Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.

This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11".
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Jun 22, 2010

If you contrive to stay left of the bush, it adds a bit better climbing on the upper part.
By RAZORsharp
From: Carlsbad CA
Oct 12, 2011

There used to be a loose as hell, big flake near the anchors with a notorious red x on it.... It is gone. watch for loose/uncleaned lines that are chalked up!
By Devin Trafford
Jun 26, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

A few near-invisible crimps that lead past the 3rd bolt to a series of committing moves.

If you can make it to the 4th bolt, you've got the route.
By Jeff Edge
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

+1 for staying left of the bush, fun route. Crux feels pretty fair at 11b since its *so* short, even if it is a tricky 1.5 moves! Compared to Mad Season for example which is a lot more sustained at the grade.