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Unforgiven Variation 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, 2000
Page Views: 1,548
Submitted By: Johnny Y on Nov 5, 2013  with updates from Derrick Peppers

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Jazmyn soaks up the exposure on Unforgiven

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a fun lieback crack on a slightly overhangging wall above the 2nd pitch of Wherever I May Roam. Once you pull over the lip, the steepness eases but the fun continues. Follow the bolts up to the base of a very overhanging wall on good face holds. Watch out of loose rocks at the anchor. This is a variation just before the traverse 3rd pitch of Wherever I May Roam, if you continue up No Pain No Gain (5.11 overhanging tips crack) you will merge back to the 4th pitch anchor.

Location 

Climb the first 2 pitches of Wherever I May Roam, the bolted line on a slightly overhanging crack should be visible from the belay anchor. It should be directly above the first bolt on the 3rd pitch of Wherever I May Roam. You can rap back to the second belay of WIMR with a 60m - knot the ends because it's pretty close to 30m

Protection 

10 bolts with bolted anchor and rap rings, good idea to extend the last draw.


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By Johnny Y
From: California
Oct 9, 2014

The couple of flake jugs after the last bolt sounded quite hollow, don't pull on them
By Laralyn Mowers
From: Astoria, NY
Jul 12, 2017

The choss and sand on this route seriously detract from the fun factor.

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