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Unfinished Business 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Schlocker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 385
Submitted By: mschlocker on Oct 20, 2011

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Climber is just just past a crux on P2 of Unfinish...

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  • Description 

    A 2 pitch adventure up the Stellar Walls. Pitch 2 is one of the more serious pitches in the area in terms of difficulty and bolt spacing.

    P1 5.9 (Little Chicken, 80'): Start from the ledge as for Stellar Crack and traverse left and up, following the bolts. First move is protected by a medium nut. Follows a series of overlaps and right facing dihedrals. Anchor is way out to the right making the exit exciting for the second.

    P2 5.10d (Unfinished Business, 120'): Head up broken rock to a ledge from where it is hard to continue due to undercut feet and small hands. Up and a step left from here. The route gets progressively easier until a headwall is reached. The headwall is entertaining with a slight overhang but good holds.


    Left side of Stellar Crack ledge. Can rap from P1 but must walk off climbers' left from P2 due to length of pitch. There is also a rap station ~80' to climbers' right at top but is hard to find.


    Medium nut for start, to protect leftward traverse. Easy but dangerous without the nut.

    It may be wise to place a cam before the headwall is reached as it is run out but easy to the headwall bolt. I just ran it out so I can't say what size would fit but medium is a good guess from looking around. It is good to place a longer quickdraw on the first headwall bolt to avoid drag.

    Comments on Unfinished Business Add Comment
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    By jeffblankman
    From: San Diego, Ca
    Oct 6, 2014

    I stupidly didn't check the knot in the end of the rope after rapping DD Arete and it got stuck at the chains. Luckily, with more than half of a 60m rope left, I was able to safely lead Little Chicken and JUST make it to the rap station for DD and retrieve the rope.

    Not sure exactly how to start this climb. The description is a bit confusing. "Start on ledge as for Stellar Crack" . . . well, Stellar starts on the far right corner of the ledge, which didn't really seem to make sense for this climb. Not sure about a nut protecting the first move, either. Left side of the ledge--below the bolt line--does have some pro options, but not the greatest. A bunch of loose, hollow flakes. Easy climbing, tho. I clipped the first bolt on Chicken Little (11.a line between Stellar and LC) then traversed left ten feet or so. Not a great fall, but easy climbing. Put in an okay cam until I was able to clip the first actual bolt on the LC line.

    This was a pretty interesting and unique climb. 5.9 rating is good, but pushed by the fact that there are sections with a lot of lichen and moss on the rock. It makes you think.
    By mschlocker
    From: San Diego, CA
    Mar 23, 2016

    Yes, this route is a bit more wild than the rest. Pitch 2 is quite exciting right off the deck.

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