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Unexpected Pleasure 

WI4+

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original: WI4+ [details]
FA: Dennis Luther, Tom Yandon, & Edmond Yandon Jan 1986
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Tom Yandon coming up the final bit of his route Un...

Description 

OK, OK I know it's listed in the guidebook ("Blue Ice", Don Mellor) as NEI 4 [ WI 4] but the guide also implies the crux is the chockstone whereas the twice I've done it I thought the upper pitch 2 was clearly both more difficult and more sustained.

P1 - Start with a short ice step, then climb the (mostly snow) gully that narrows to a deep cleft with a chockstone blocking the way. As the guide states...find your [ mixed ] "unexpected pleasure" as you climb past this and then up left to a belay at a large tree.

P2 - Climb the right-facing corner (rock pro) and then balance over right to the final ice.

Rap the route ( 3 raps with single rope, last rap off of a small tree in the gully...or downclimb instead of doing the short 3rd rap...or take 2 ropes)

Location 

Hopefully there will be tracks to the base. If not, look for the short, easy flow that leads into a snow gully; all just to the right of, and 80-100 ft below, the big flow of "JW" (which often doesn't touch down)
If you start up something and you don't run into the chimney & chockstone about 100 ft up, you're in the wrong place.

Protection 

Bring wire nuts and cams (small & medium) and alpine draws, especially for P2


Photos of Unexpected Pleasure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex smiles before heading up to the out of the fa...
Alex smiles before heading up to the out of the fa...

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