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5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Mike Pennings, Drew Spaulding-Sept.'93 |
Page Views: | 1,726 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Drew Spaulding on Feb 10, 2013 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The 1st pitch has a few 5.11 cruxes and starts approximately 300' from the closest point to the Crowhead Spires around the east side of the Bird's View Butte. Lieback up a rightward leaning V-slot (5.11a-#4 Camalot) towards the obvious J-crack above. Step out left into the incredible arching 5.10 hand crack to it's top where another 5.11 crux powers through a rattley fingers section. Pitch 2 continues up into the right facing acute offwidth corner above(4"-5") At the top of the offwidth is a section with a few loose blocks that are avoided by stepping to the right on the face and into the finger crack above. Traverse 15' around the left to belay at the base of a corner system leading toward the top. A finger section, to a fist section to a 6"+section lead up to a large boulder strewn ledge 40' below the summit. Climb(we soloed without a rope) up the obvious 5.5 chimney to the summit. to reach the Rappel Anchors, downclimb the chimney back to the large ledge and over to the 2-bolt anchor to start the descent. 2 more raps back to the ground.
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