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Bird's View Butte
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Unemployment Line  T 

Unemployment Line  

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Pennings, Drew Spaulding-Sept.'93
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Feb 10, 2013

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This is a topo I sketched after our ascent of this...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The 1st pitch has a few 5.11 cruxes and starts approximately 300' from the closest point to the Crowhead Spires around the east side of the Bird's View Butte. Lieback up a rightward leaning V-slot (5.11a-#4 Camalot) towards the obvious J-crack above. Step out left into the incredible arching 5.10 hand crack to it's top where another 5.11 crux powers through a rattley fingers section. Pitch 2 continues up into the right facing acute offwidth corner above(4"-5") At the top of the offwidth is a section with a few loose blocks that are avoided by stepping to the right on the face and into the finger crack above. Traverse 15' around the left to belay at the base of a corner system leading toward the top. A finger section, to a fist section to a 6"+section lead up to a large boulder strewn ledge 40' below the summit. Climb(we soloed without a rope) up the obvious 5.5 chimney to the summit. to reach the Rappel Anchors, downclimb the chimney back to the large ledge and over to the 2-bolt anchor to start the descent. 2 more raps back to the ground.


A standard desert rack plus few #4 camalots and a larger 6" piece would be preferable for this route. We also used 2 ropes for the descent.

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