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BETA PHOTO: The x's show the second rappel anchors. The lo...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
The 1st pitch has a few 5.11 cruxes and starts approximately 300' from the closest point to the Crowhead Spires around the east side of the Bird's View Butte. Lieback up a rightward leaning V-slot (5.11a-#4 Camalot) towards the obvious J-crack above. Step out left into the incredible arching 5.10 hand crack to it's top where another 5.11 crux powers through a rattley fingers section. Pitch 2 continues up into the right facing acute offwidth corner above(4"-5") At the top of the offwidth is a section with a few loose blocks that are avoided by stepping to the right on the face and into the finger crack above. Traverse 15' around the left to belay at the base of a corner system leading toward the top. A finger section, to a fist section to a 6"+section lead up to a large boulder strewn ledge 40' below the summit. Climb(we soloed without a rope) up the obvious 5.5 chimney to the summit. to reach the Rappel Anchors, downclimb the chimney back to the large ledge and over to the 2-bolt anchor to start the descent. 2 more raps back to the ground.
A standard desert rack plus few #4 camalots and a larger 6" piece would be preferable for this route. We also used 2 ropes for the descent.
This is a topo I sketched after our ascent of this...
By Ben Kiessel
Feb 4, 2017
The fixed hexes are gone. They are replaced by some fixed nuts just above the first crux on pitch one. We belayed where the fixed hexes once were which is a hanging belay. I might suggest shortening pitch 1 to belay on the sloping ledge with the fixed nuts. This would make pitch two longer but as long as you runner gear and save a new 5 for the 5.10+ OW you'd be fine. Pitch 3 is a little run out if your biggest piece is a #6. I placed a blind .5 but my second said it was bad. I might suggest a #4 big bro for that pitch if you don't like runouts.