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Understanding Pinches 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dee and Dave Tvedt, 1995
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: j-dubs on Jul 8, 2012

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This varied route starts with a thin slab, then moves up and left through a slightly overhanging section with underclings, pinches, mantles...a bit of everything. The crux is near the top, climbing past a thin flake. After pulling a small bulge, you can either clip the anchors on the route just to the left (Beguiled) or continue up and right (about 30 feet of 5.6 slab) to another anchor.


On the right hand side of Walt's Wall, near a large stump. One rope rappel.


Bolts, two-bolt anchor at the top.

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By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 7, 2015

The upper crux on this route requires the use of a big hollow flake that kind of freaked me out ... rope cutter for sure should it blow. Makes me not super psyched to get on this again. Fun moves though, probably noticeably harder than 5.10b if you are short.

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