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Thunderbolt Peak
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Austrian Arete T 
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Underhill Couloir T 

Underhill Couloir 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Underhill, Clyde, Robinson, Farquhar, Dawson, Clark, Eichorn - August 1931
Season: Spring to Fall - Spring is best
Page Views: 1,230
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Underhill Couloir Route


AKA Undertaker Couloir.

Class 4 minus the summit monolith (5.9). Route of peak's first ascent.

Approach via the Palisade Glacier. Cross the bergschrund (gets bigger as the season progresses). Climb the righthand couloir, passing a chockstone on the right - continue up a chimney to the notch between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak. There are two ways from here; either traverse ledges on the south side then up a gully to the summit ridge. Or (better) climb directly up the ridge from the notch to the summit monolith.

Better when there's snow in the couloir - the couloir is horribly loose when free of snow.

Descend the route -- (rap and downclimb-- there are fixed pins along the right-side of the gully at each rap station).


North facing couloir between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak.


Solo class 4 - ice-axe and possibly crampons. Summit monolith (5.9) may require a length of rope.

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By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Jul 31, 2012

I just rappelled this and it was horribly loose and dangerous. Do not climb this route when it is dry.