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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bayard Russell and Dana Drummond, June 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,581
Submitted By: bayard russell jr on Aug 14, 2008

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Jim Surette photo. The second pitch of the Underg...


The Underground is a sneaky colection of high quality, 60'-ish, sustained 5.11 pitches. We did the FA the same day the London Underground was bombed in June 2005. Except for the second half of the first pitch (Deleightmaker) it is all new terrain. A good addition to the other sustained multipitch 11d's that grace the cliff.


The Underground begins just right (ten feet) of Diedre.

1)Climbs a bolted, right facing corner. Scramble up fifteen feet to the first bolt and a 5.11 bolder problem to gain the corner, a couple of pieces of gear along the way. Slab climb up to buckets and a belay ledge shared with Deleighmaker.5.11c

2)Climb the right hand of the two corners, traverse right at the corner's end at a horizontal break and scramble to a belay ledge in Karen's Variation. 5.11d

3)Head out right from the belay to a rising left to right traversing seam. Follow the bolts to the crack. Belay on Diedre's Blueberry Terrace. 5.11c

4)Locate a lone bolt directly above the right side of the Blueberry Terrace, twenty feet right of Kinesis's lone bolt on a subtle arete. Scramble off the Terrace and onto a small ledge below a shallow, open book corner. The corner is short and 5.8R. Follow cracks and face holds to the two bolt anchor on top of Kinesis. 5.11c

Either lower off and belay from the Blueberry Terrace or continue to the top. There is a rappel anchor, typically, on a tree off the right side of the Blueberry Terrace - a single 60m rappel to the ground. If you only have one rope there is also a three pin anchor below and right of the next ledge down that will get you to the ground.


The protection is good through-out the route. There is at least one bolt on every pitch; the first pitch is almost entirely bolted, but it is definitely a trad route. We would typically bring a rack up to a #1 Camalot with extra finger and off-finger size pieces. There are some fiddley nuts on the beautiful second pitch corner and a bit of 5.8 R, protected by dubious RP's, on the last pitch. None of the belays are bolted, except for the fourth pitch which shares an anchor with Kinesis.

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By Matt Mendonza
Sep 29, 2014

I tried the underground the other day thought i would share a little.

On Pitch one you can clip the first bolt from a good hold down and left before you try the boulder problem. The boulder problem was very very hard. There is a lot of dirt and scum and moss on this bottom section, i was having trouble with one move, then pulled off a big patch of moss to reveal a giant jug. It is in need of a scrubbing.

Pitch two was awesome, thin, cathedral crack slabbing. The traverse right protects well and wouldn't be bad if clean but was again COVERED in moss and dirt.

We finished up Karens variation when my partner ripped the bottom of his shoe off stepping on a pebble on pitch 2.

Going to give it another try this fall, maybe after rapping in and cleaning it a bit.

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