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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ron Skelton, Dan McDevitt, March 1988
Page Views: 1,258
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Sep 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Underclingon follows a beautiful arching roof to its end, where you transfer to the cool head-wall above. This transition is the crux, but is protected really well. The undercling moves out the roof are fun and solid and the footholds are nice and textured too! Once you get onto the head-wall, angle somewhat right and towards the anchors of The Tube. This way follows the top of the 12c between the two routes but is fun and interesting and there is no drag. To get to the last bolt a fun mantle move is done. A great climb.


This route is located about 30 or 40 feet left of The Tube. It starts at the base (left end) of a small obvious, arching roof that is underclinged to the end.



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By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 5, 2009

Very fun route. Make sure to bring a few alpine draws/slings for some of the middle/upper bolts since the route wanders a little (I used two but wished for a third). Excellent start with a tricky steep finish! Stick clipping the 1st bolt may be wise.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Ron Skelton, Dan McDevitt, 3/1988
By Ned
Sep 2, 2014

I was just on this climb (September 2014) and couldn't find the anchors. After the 7th bolt (last bolt in the SuperTopo guide), there were no anchors to be found. I could see anchors up far and to the left, following the diagonal ramp, but getting up there requires a relatively sketchy mantle considering at that point you're 30-40 feet runout. I ended up traversing a move left from the bottom of the ramp and bailing off a random bolt in the middle of the wall. Not sure where you're intended to go, or if the anchors got chopped.
By Vlad S
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think the best way to finish the climb is to go for the Tube anchor. It's a touch run out, but pretty secure and fun.

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