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Lizardhead Cove
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Chuckwalla T 
Underbelly T 

Underbelly 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Derek Field, Alan Ponce, James Moxley (Jan 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: Derek Field on Feb 21, 2017

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Alan coming up the fun crack section on Underbelly...

Description 

Chuckwalla and Underbelly are a pair of cracks located on the sunny wall known as Lizardhead Cove. Together they make for a solid session of moderate crack climbing in a very scenic setting.

Underbelly is the right crack of the two. It's the obvious left-arcing flake that overlaps the center of the wall. The first ascent was completed during a torrential thunderstorm.

Pitch 1: Shared with Chuckwalla. Start at the notch between the detached pillar (Samurai Warrior) and the main wall. Quest out on a horizontal traverse, riding the Fort Apache limestone band out into thin air. The first half is very easy and protects well with small cams in a continuous horizontal groove. About halfway across, difficulties arise. Mount a small detached flake and follow two bolts across a more technical section. This pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor on the far edge of the wall. The first ascent was done using only natural protection; the two bolts were drilled on rappel. (5.8, 80 feet)

Pitch 2: Walk up and right off the belay to the base of the incipient crack system. Place a couple nuts/TCUs and pull the one-move-wonder crux. Cruise the left-arcing crack with a luxurious rippled slab for your feet. Near the top, step right into an even-lower-angle fingertips dihedral. Finish at a two-bolt chain anchor on deluxe vista ledge. (5.8, 80 feet)

Pitch 3: Shared with Chuckwalla; currently not recommended. The FA team has plans to clean it up, so stay tuned. This pitch takes you from the Schnebly into the Coconino. Taking care not to feed yourself to the hungry agave pack, make tenuous slab moves in a shallow corner. Swing softly through a steep, loose section (10-15 feet of bad rock and bad pro). Fight the pump to the security of a splitter handcrack and jam your way to the topout ledge with slung tree anchor. (5.9+ PG, 70 feet)

Class-3 scrambling brings you to the summit of Lizard Head.

Location 

Obvious left-arcing flake in center of Lizardhead Cove.

Protection 

Single rack to 4"
2 bolts


Photos of Underbelly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Chuckwalla and Underbelly.
Topo for Chuckwalla and Underbelly.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bean following the P1 traverse.
Bean following the P1 traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: James jogging up the final stretch of P2 in a thun...
James jogging up the final stretch of P2 in a thun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up to the crux move on Underbelly during th...
Coming up to the crux move on Underbelly during th...

Comments on Underbelly Add Comment
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By Alan Ponce
Feb 24, 2017

A real leg day with this one! That traverse is a great warm-up. The crux is fun and the low angle wall and splitter crack test you a little bit. All around really fun and a challenging 5.9!

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