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Lizardhead Cove
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Chuckwalla T 
Underbelly T 

Underbelly 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Derek Field, Alan Ponce, James Moxley (Jan 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Derek Field on Feb 21, 2017

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Alan coming up the fun crack section on Underbelly...

Description 

Chuckwalla and Underbelly are a pair of cracks located on the sunny wall known as Lizardhead Cove.

Underbelly is the right crack of the two. It's the obvious left-arcing flake that overlaps the center of the wall. The first ascent was completed during a torrential thunderstorm.

Pitch 1: Shared with Chuckwalla. Start at the notch between the detached pillar (Samurai Warrior) and the main wall. Quest out on a horizontal traverse, riding the Fort Apache limestone band out into thin air. The first half is fairly easy and protects well with small cams in a continuous horizontal groove. About halfway across, difficulties arise. Mount a small detached flake and follow two bolts across a more technical section. This pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor on the far edge of the wall. The first ascent was done using only natural protection; the two bolts were drilled on rappel. (5.8, 80 feet)

Pitch 2: Slab up and right off the belay to the base of the incipient crack system. Place a couple nuts/TCUs and pull the one-move-wonder crux. Cruise the left-arcing crack with a luxurious rippled slab for your feet. Near the top, step right into a low-angle fingertips dihedral. Finish at a two-bolt chain anchor on deluxe vista ledge. (5.8, 80 feet)

Since this pitch shares its top-anchor with Chuckwalla, you have the option of continuing up the third pitch of that route to get to the top of Lizard Head.

Location 

Obvious left-arcing flake in center of Lizardhead Cove.

Protection 

Single rack to 4"
2 bolts


Photos of Underbelly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Chuckwalla and Underbelly.
Topo for Chuckwalla and Underbelly.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bean following the P1 traverse.
Bean following the P1 traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: James jogging up the final stretch of P2 in a thun...
James jogging up the final stretch of P2 in a thun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up to the crux move on Underbelly during th...
Coming up to the crux move on Underbelly during th...

Comments on Underbelly Add Comment
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By Alan Ponce
Feb 24, 2017

A real leg day with this one! That traverse is a great warm-up. The crux is fun and the low angle wall and splitter crack test you a little bit. All around really fun and a challenging 5.9!

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