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Under the Boardwalk  

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler, Kyle Copelund 1989
Page Views: 2,868
Submitted By: jakobi on Nov 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Free bail biners for life.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Under the Boardwalk begins with a somewhat awkward sequence on the right arete to a high first bolt. Move out onto the face clipping a couple of old 1/2" bolts, trending left to the twin-arete feature. The climb changes shape here becoming thuggy compression climbing up the prow. The angle eases off two bolts before the chains but the climbing stays tenuous until they're clipped.

Location 

Located a couple of routes left of Nervous in Suburbia. Look for the obvious prow and the typical bail biner four bolts below the chains.

Protection 

8 quickdraws.


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By Will Wright
From: Phoenix
May 9, 2016

This is a great, great climb and earns my vote for the best on wall street. Technical and delicate traverse leads into barbaric liebacking on the double arete before finally gaining a lower angle and some sandy feet to finish.

A couple of the draws can be desperate clips, feels very hard for the grade!
By Jesus H. Christ
Nov 29, 2016

It's funny that the route description mentions bail biners. I went up this thing, not knowing how hard it was, in pursuit of a bail biner. I was very pleasantly surprised to find what I think might be the best route on Wall Street, and one of the cooler sport pitches I've done anywhere.
By Michael Dom
Dec 1, 2016

What a neat route! The climbing was much more difficult up high and could best be described as slabpression.